05.15.06
Dara Thai
To understand the girl I love, I have to go back more than two centuries. Her maternal ancestors hail from a small Khmer Muslim village in the Cambodian countryside. The village, unchanged for generation upon generation, was in a region known to have the best cuisine in all of Southeast Asia.
So when the Army of Siam invaded Cambodia near the turn of the 19th century, the village was subject to a sort of reverse ethnic cleansing. The entire population of villagers, along with their culinary secrets, were forcibly relocated to a crowded neighborhood along a canal near the center of Bangkok. The people were made to cook for the royal court and this part of town became known as Baan Krua: The Neighborhood Of Kitchens.
My girlfriend, Melissa Dara, was born in Washington, DC . Had she been born just a decade earlier, it would have been in that fabled neighborhood. Her mother, as well as the previous dozen generations of Khmer-style Thai Muslim chefs, was born in that unique place on earth.
(A small part of the family back in Baan Krua; Notice Melissa with the huge smile in the middle and King Bhumibol with the suit on the wall in the back)
When I met Melissa, she had been learning the techniques of the Neighborhood of Kitchens from her mother for only three years. But Melissa and I were just friends, and it was kept a secret from me. I recall only vague memories of incredibly inviting smells each time I dropped by to pick her up or watch movies. I never had the opportunity to sit down to eat with the family.
About two years ago, Melissa and I began going out. She spoke of her mother’s cooking often, and soon I was invited to dinner. I was treated to a feast that to this day ranks as one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I have only a fuzzy recollection of the spicy shrimp and ginger soup, fried chicken with garlic and white pepper, and shredded beef jerky with palm sugar and shallots because my pleasures synapses were firing so fast I actaully got a physical high. I told her mother that she shouldn’t have gone through all that extra trouble just because I was coming over, but the whole family was quick to point out that they feast like that about six days per week for as long as anyone could remember.
At that point, Melissa had spent nearly a decade as an apprentice in her mother’s kitchen. And she diligently kept a notebook in both Thai and English of family recipes and cooking secrets. But she’d never cooked without her mother by her side.
Finally, just about a year ago, she tried her hand at cooking on her own in her Soho apartment. She bought a mortar and pestal for the occasion, and she used it to crush the shrimp that she mixed with the ground beef and peas so that it would achieve an ideal level of moistness. She served it inside at perfectly formed pocket of fried egg. Melissa had succeeded in making Kai Yudt-Sai (which translates to “egg-stuffed with stuffing”). We sat down at her counter on Vandam Street to a meal perfected over centuries, a meal quite literally fit for a king. And it was every bit as good as her mother’s.
(The chef gets ready to taste her Woonsen Ob, bean thread with chicken and shrimp in her New York kitchen)
Since that inaugural home-cooked Khmer-style Thai Muslim feast, my culinary life has been a waking dream. Melissa makes her mother proud about three times a week. And she’s already mastered more dishes than I can remember the names of, though her mother claims to have more culinary knowledge than she could possibly pass on in a lifetime. I can’t decide which is my favorite, the Nua Sawan (”heavenly beef”) with roasted coriandor:
or the Pad macaroni, a childhood favorite of Melissa’s:
(Here’s the Pad Macaroni during the brief moment before the eggs are cooked in)
I have the feeling I’ll never decide.
The only problem is that Melissa refuses to go out for Thai food in New York. She can’t imagine that anything could compare to her or her mother’s cooking, and she has a point. But I keep telling her that there is a large, recent immigrant population of Thais thriving in New York, and there are plenty of restaurants that could be phenomenal. I thought she might even learn something. Still, she resisted.
Melissa often rides shotgun with me in my cab to keep me company and chat with or gawk at my kooky fares. And last week, she was with me while I took three Thai restaurant workers from their job at one of the big, corporate Thai restaurants in Williamsburg back to their neighborhood along Roosevelt Avenue in Woodside, Queens. She spoke with them in Thai, and I had her ask where they eat great, cheap Thai food in Queens.
They all agreed that Sri Pra Phai was the best restaurant in the neighborhood. I reasoned with her that she goes out to eat when she visits Thailand, so why not explore Woodside. Eventually she caved.
(Evidence of Melissa going out to eat in Thailand with her Aunt Pa Pah: eating a coconut milk dessert at Lantay outside Bangkok)
Today, we went back to Woodside. Melissa was apprehensive. She seemed to feel as though she was cheating on her mother’s cooking. But she started to relax as soon as we walked through the door and caught a whiff of the restaurant. It didn’t smell exactly like home, but it really did smell like true Thai cuisine.
Naturally, I let Melissa do all of the ordering. We started with Kanom Cheeb, delicate steamed dumplings filled with chicken and shrimp, mostly because she knew they are a pain to make herself so we might as well take advantage of the restaurant kitchen. I tasted one and decided they were delicious. I eagerly looked at Melissa to see her reaction, and I witnessed a reluctant nod of approval. Once the waiter was out of ear shot, she said, “My mom makes them much better. . . but these are good. Oh my God, you gotta try my mom’s.” It was a start.
The Thai iced teas came, and we agreed that they were the real deal. I drank mine much too fast and ended up ordering a second. “As sweet and refreshing as anything I’ve had back in Thailand,” Melissa said.
Then it was time for the moment of truth. The main courses arrived. She ordered two of the most basic dishes that her mother makes. Melissa had already mastered both. We were served generous portions of Pad See-ew and chicken with basil.
(Melissa’s reluctant first bite of chicken with basil in New York that she didn’t cook herself; That’s spicy Thai)
She took her first bite from the chicken with basil, and she spent at least two full minutes tasting it without looking at me before she spoke. I was ecstatic when she gave it the thumbs up. The chicken was tender and the spice allowed the flavor to come through the heat without being overpowering.
The Pad See-ew was more than adequate as well. The noodles were fresh and tasty, the chinese broccoli had been cooked in well, and the beef was flavorful. Obviously, Melissa could have done better herself, but Sri Pra Phai has proven itself a worthy substitute. Most importantly, Melissa left the restaurant with a smile on her face.
We will likely return to Sri Pra Phai relatively soon. And we might even try a different Thai restaurant if we get a solid recommendation. But tonight, Melissa will be busy mastering her mother’s Drunken Noodles. And I will eat like a king.
Sri Pra Phai, 64-13 39th Ave, Woodside, Queens
Check out www.famousfatdave.com for a snicker or to book an eating tour
Omnedon said,
May 15, 2006 at 5:59 am
We have one Chinese restaurant that has two menus, the second one isn’t usually offered to westerners.
I need to start saving up and book one of your tours.
Jeremy said,
May 15, 2006 at 9:31 am
Jesus my mouth is watering. I live right next to a thai place and it’s pretty bad-mediocre. In fact, most of the decently priced food in LA LA Land is pretty shitty — except for the dollar tacos which are pretty supreme. Thumbs up! I need recipes.
Natalie said,
May 15, 2006 at 1:40 pm
I wish I grew up learning to cook mouthwateringly delcious foods. Oh well. I enjoyed the read and seeing the pictures of your girlfriend.
patrick teoh said,
May 15, 2006 at 2:28 pm
Hi Dave, my name is Patrick and I live in Malaysia which is just south of Thailand. A few years ago I spent a couple of weeks in NYC shooting Return To Paradise with Joachin Phoenix and Anne Heche. I wish I had met you back then. It would have made my 2 week stay in NYC a little more friendly and exciting. I enjoy your blog tremendously. Great writing. You’ll be on Letterman next and become really famous before Christmas. Good luck and thanks for the delicious blogs. Keep ‘em coming.
Emily said,
May 15, 2006 at 4:12 pm
Any chance there’s a recipe for that delicious looking Woonsen Ob?
AWE said,
May 15, 2006 at 4:34 pm
Pretty girl, great food, does it get any better?
Wil said,
May 15, 2006 at 4:50 pm
I am so glad that Melissa Plaut, aka: New York Hack, posted a link to your site when she went on vacation last month. It has been a treat to read and I have added it to my list of cab-blogs.
Aloha from Mau’i
Paradise Driver
Danielle said,
May 16, 2006 at 2:46 am
Hey Dave– I agree with Wil. I’m a regular reader now! I’ll have to save up for a big cab ride with you. And I’m only over in New Jersey!
Wow, what a lucky guy you are to have such a beautiful girlfriend (beautiful– she’s GORGEOUS!) …and she can cook that well as well? Marry her before she gets away! (I know that’s why my hubby married me– ’cause I can cook much better than he can!)
Ray Chen said,
May 17, 2006 at 8:41 am
Dave… when are you going to make an honest woman out of Melissa?
Ayala said,
June 16, 2006 at 9:43 pm
Wow, can I marry Melissa?
Ask her if you see her.
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » How Much For Just One Rib said,
October 19, 2006 at 11:54 pm
[...] But I usually do NOT go out of my way to get tips on where to find fried chicken. Although fried chicken is one of my favorite foods on the planet, I get enough of it right here in the comfort of my own home. My special lady friend Melissa, drawing on the techniques of countless generations of Khymer-style Thai Muslim chefs from her mother’s “Neighborhood of Kitchens” in Bangkok, fries up chicken at home like no New York City fry cook ever could. She guards the family recipe with her life, but I can tell you she fries it first and then puts it in the oven so as not to burn it in the oil but still cook it all the way through. She also makes a dipping sauce for it with lime juice, fish sauce, hot pepper, and some other secret ingredients. And she serves it over jasmine rice. [...]
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Saveur said,
January 11, 2007 at 2:11 am
[...] My cousin Jeremy (resident of LA, big shot Hollywood editor), my girlfriend Melissa (Khmer-style Thai chef, lover of me and fried chicken), and I planned to hit the Roscoe’s location in Oakland on our roadtrip because Jeremy had heard it was more “authentic.” We made it up to the Bay Area on our roadtrip only to find that Roscoe’s had closed. So we had to wait until we made it back to LA. [...]
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Sacramento Boulevard!!! said,
January 24, 2007 at 1:15 pm
[...] So over the new year, I headed out west. Melissa, my sweet, Khmer-style Thai girlfriend, put her vacation days from 06 together with her vacation days from 07, and we managed to put together a fairly lengthy west coast swing. [...]
Rosa said,
February 7, 2007 at 3:48 pm
Hi There.. I love your blog here! I was actually looking online for a recipe for macaroni pad and I stumbled across your blog… I was born and raised in Thailand and I’m in NewYork for school.. I have a few more months left before I head back home.. Its hard to find good thai food here.. Even harder to find macaroni pad!!! If Melissa ever decides to give away that recipe please let me know!!! You two sound great… Keep it up with the blog k? =)
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » The Big Washinsky said,
February 23, 2007 at 10:09 am
[...] And so, with his friends Jack, Melissa, and me to support him along with the waitress and George the sushi chef, he went for it. The support team was ideal. Jack, who wrote the Famous Fat Dave theme song while stuffing himself with sushi from this very Yummy Village, knows what makes The Big Washinsky tick, and thus knows how to talk to the man even during the most trying of times. Melissa, who lives and dies for sushi and has eaten at Yummy Village late at night many times and so knew what best to order (7 eel, 20 yellow tail, and 26 of some of the tastiest salmon in town), has a calming effect on Nigiri like music on a savage beast. And I have a digital camera and a blog. [...]
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Hardly Working said,
March 20, 2007 at 7:34 am
[...] I thought I might mitigate the pain and injustice I was about to face by taking my lovin’ spoonful of a girlfriend Melissa along with me. She gets a kick out of riding shotgun in the cab and talking with my fares. Once she put in a full eight hour day at her job, and then spent twelve hours with me at my job all the way from picking the cab up to dropping it off again. [...]
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Cabbie Voices said,
April 7, 2007 at 12:20 am
[...] Melissa (not the New York Hack Melissa but my Midnight Snack Melissa) and I hit the premiere party Wednesday night, and the exhibit was very cool. [...]
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » DAVID LUNCH EST. 1978 said,
April 19, 2007 at 11:30 pm
[...] With that in mind, I made a pit stop in New Haven on my way up to Boston so Melissa and I could try this prehistoric burger and see what all the hype is about (okay, we actually took the much slower route via I95 rather than I84 specifically so we could go through New Haven and eat at Louis Lunch). [...]
Sandira said,
July 14, 2007 at 3:22 am
Dave,
Would you happen to know of a good Cambodian food place?
Melissa,
Can you cook Koi Tiew?
Thanks for sharing your eating adventures!
mona.nichols@gmail.com said,
August 6, 2007 at 6:22 am
Wow, I typed ‘roommate wanted Sacramento’ into Google search, and somehow stumbled upon your page. Melissa seems perfect, and sooo beautiful. I wish I had culinary traditions to pass on. Maybe one day I’ll move to another country and teach my descendents the ancient American secrets of spicy Top Roman, fried bologna sandwiches, and Kraft macaroni & cheese w/ copped up hot dogs. That Nua Sawan looks amazing!! Is she, or any member of her family going to put out a cookbook?
bbq-cooking-baked-potato.bookrecipe said,
September 8, 2007 at 12:59 am
[...] [...] amazing site now kick around this news http://famousfatdave.com/blog/2006/05/15/dara-thai and give comments [...] [...]
kie said,
September 26, 2007 at 3:57 pm
hey,, i like ur gf so much
and i do agree with everything about thailand
i’m picky american thai
wanna come back state so bad, but i love everything in thailand so bad ryt now
soo gd page, i love thai foods
The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Happy Valentiiiiimes said,
February 14, 2008 at 2:43 pm
[...] If you’re sick of looking at my mug you’ll be pleased to find Grand Master Melly Mel making a special, albeit brief, guest appearance on today’s episode of Holiday Foods. [...]
UK Visa said,
December 24, 2008 at 9:16 am
Your story is great to read, it demonstrates to me that no matter where you come from on earth deep down we are all the same, with requirement for family sharing and love.
It is difficult many times for men from the west to marry a Thai lady for both of them to adapt to live together, but as shown here it is very possible,